Dynomotion

Group: DynoMotion Message: 4997 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/18/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Ok...thanks again.

I just bought an Arduino for me and my daughter to fool around with. It looks like the programming language is similar to C. It will help to learn on, anyway.

I should have gotten one first...lol.

If I run a second watchdog....do I need to place it between the brackets of the first one (watchdog) at the end of my init.c?

Does the green box that appears around the thread number when I run a program with a watchdog just mean something is ongoing?

Mike

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>  
> For the opto inputs the 470 ohms is internal.  Just connect the + terminal to either +5V or +12V and the - terminal to your switch and the other end of the switch to ground.
>  
> Regarding not being messy: That is hard.  The Winford board has a prototype area you might consider using.  Otherwise you might find industrial PLC or OPTO22 type modules to do the conversion.  But you still may need a serie resistor if they put out +5V (or actually more than 3.5V).
>  
> Regards
> TK
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:34 AM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>
>  
>
> Tom,
>
> Aah....Thanks very much for that drawing. I can't seem to understand these things without one, yet.
>
> I'm wondering how to add these components without making a mess of my wiring and having things running everywhere.....lol.
>
> Would you happen to have a picture of someone's clean wiring job that might show the external add ons like the resistor and capacitor?
>
> I have the winford BOB's for the SnapAmp, and JP7 on Kflop.
>
> I see in the manual that the opto input circuit shows a 470 ohm resistor on the opto+ pin.
>
> Is that internal, or a suggestion?
>
> My boards are on their way back to you....and I forgot to put a note in the box explaining the trouble.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >  
> > I'm not sure I follow that.  But see attached for a possible solution.  This takes advantage of the internal pull downs on certain KFLOP pins.  The Pull up forms a divider to put 3V on the pin.  When the switch opens R2 pulls the pin to 0V.  R1 also provides protection against spikes on the +5V bus.  The capacitor provides filtering in case of nois spikes picked up in the wiring.  To use Pins without internal pull downs add a pull down externally.
> >  
> > Regards
> > TK
> >
> > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:09 AM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> >
> >
> >  
> > Tom,
> >
> > Well.....OK, I actually don't understand. You mentioned using a resistor of a few hundred ohms in series on the power side of the pulldown circuit in case of voltage spikes.
> >
> > Wouldn't it be prudent to do a similar thing on a pullup?
> >
> > I guess you would put the 200ohm first, then the 1kohm to ground and take the power from between them to the input pin? The switch would then be between the resistors to ground.
> >
> > In the above scenario on the pullup, though, the circuit would be consuming some current in both states?
> >
> > I'm sure I'm missing something here (probably a lot :-)).
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Tom,
> > >
> > > You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?
> > >
> > > It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Looks reasonable to me.
> > > > >
> > > > > TK
> > > > >
> > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> > > > >
> > > > > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> > > > >
> > > > > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp.ÃÆ'‚ That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5VÃÆ'‚ tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem.ÃÆ'‚ But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms.ÃÆ'‚ It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage.ÃÆ'‚ The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > However you would also need a pull down resistor.ÃÆ'‚ This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V.ÃÆ'‚ More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > TK
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > 3.3V shouldÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ not cause any damage.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ TheÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ next pin over on JP7 is 12V though whichÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ wouldÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ cause damage.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > send to:
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > Dynomotion
> > > > > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ Then apply +5V to KFLOP.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > > TKÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚ ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚
> > > > > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > What did I do?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4998 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/18/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Hi Mike,

Yes usually there is a "for" loop at the end of your main function.  The loop has a set of curly brackets after it.  Everything in the curly brackets gets executed every time around the loop.  So if there is N operations that you want to have continuously performed then put them all in the loop.

Yes the Green Bar on a Thread indicates that Thread is current executing a program.

Regards
TK

Group: DynoMotion Message: 5008 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/20/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Thanks,

I thought I read somewhere (although I can't find it again) that the dc supply for the SnapAmp should be turned on after the axis' have been enabled.

Is that correct?

Must I enable the SnapAmp fans manually, or do they come on at a specified temp?

I saw the fan on c program in the folder, and wondered.

Mike



--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Yes usually there is a "for" loop at the end of your main function.  The loop has a set of curly brackets after it.  Everything in the curly brackets gets executed every time around the loop.  So if there is N operations that you want to have continuously performed then put them all in the loop.
>
> Yes the Green Bar on a Thread indicates that Thread is current executing a program.
>
> Regards
> TK
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 2:38 PM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
> Ok...thanks again.
>
> I just bought an Arduino for me and my daughter to fool around with. It looks like the programming language is similar to C. It will help to learn on, anyway.
>
> I should have gotten one first...lol.
>
> If I run a second watchdog....do I need to place it between the brackets of the first one (watchdog) at the end of my init.c?
>
> Does the green box that appears around the thread number when I run a program with a watchdog just mean something is ongoing?
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >  
> > For the opto inputs the 470 ohms is internal.  Just connect the + terminal to either +5V or +12V and the - terminal to your switch and the other end of the switch to ground.
> >  
> > Regarding not being messy: That is hard.  The Winford board has a prototype area you might consider using.  Otherwise you might find industrial PLC or OPTO22 type modules to do the conversion.  But you still may need a serie resistor if they put out +5V (or actually more than 3.5V).
> >  
> > Regards
> > TK
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:34 AM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > Aah....Thanks very much for that drawing. I can't seem to understand these things without one, yet.
> >
> > I'm wondering how to add these components without making a mess of my wiring and having things running everywhere.....lol.
> >
> > Would you happen to have a picture of someone's clean wiring job that might show the external add ons like the resistor and capacitor?
> >
> > I have the winford BOB's for the SnapAmp, and JP7 on Kflop.
> >
> > I see in the manual that the opto input circuit shows a 470 ohm resistor on the opto+ pin.
> >
> > Is that internal, or a suggestion?
> >
> > My boards are on their way back to you....and I forgot to put a note in the box explaining the trouble.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mike,
> > >  
> > > I'm not sure I follow that.  But see attached for a possible solution.  This takes advantage of the internal pull downs on certain KFLOP pins.  The Pull up forms a divider to put 3V on the pin.  When the switch opens R2 pulls the pin to 0V.  R1 also provides protection against spikes on the +5V bus.  The capacitor provides filtering in case of nois spikes picked up in the wiring.  To use Pins without internal pull downs add a pull down externally.
> > >  
> > > Regards
> > > TK
> > >
> > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:09 AM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > > Tom,
> > >
> > > Well.....OK, I actually don't understand. You mentioned using a resistor of a few hundred ohms in series on the power side of the pulldown circuit in case of voltage spikes.
> > >
> > > Wouldn't it be prudent to do a similar thing on a pullup?
> > >
> > > I guess you would put the 200ohm first, then the 1kohm to ground and take the power from between them to the input pin? The switch would then be between the resistors to ground.
> > >
> > > In the above scenario on the pullup, though, the circuit would be consuming some current in both states?
> > >
> > > I'm sure I'm missing something here (probably a lot :-)).
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Tom,
> > > >
> > > > You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?
> > > >
> > > > It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > >
> > > > > On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Looks reasonable to me.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > TK
> > > > > >
> > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5VÃÆ'Æ'‚ tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > However you would also need a pull down resistor.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > 3.3V shouldÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ not cause any damage.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ TheÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ next pin over on JP7 is 12V though whichÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ wouldÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ cause damage.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > send to:
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > Dynomotion
> > > > > > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > > > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > > > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ Then apply +5V to KFLOP.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > > > TKÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > What did I do?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 5009 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/20/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Hi Michael,
 
No it is better to have the Motor Supply on before trying to enable the Axis.  If the Motor Supply is not on when you enable the Axis then the servo is likely to detect a small error and make a futile attempt to correct the error which wil result in max output being commanded.  Then is the Motor supply is turned on there is likely to be a big jerk.
 
You might have read that the +5V for KFLOP and SnapAmp should be applied before Motor Power.  Although not necessary if possible this is the preferred sequence.
 
The SnapAmp Fans come on automatically at 40C.  The Fan.c program was for the now obsolete KMotion Board.
 
Regards
TK

From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 7:12 PM
Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function

 
Thanks,

I thought I read somewhere (although I can't find it again) that the dc supply for the SnapAmp should be turned on after the axis' have been enabled.

Is that correct?

Must I enable the SnapAmp fans manually, or do they come on at a specified temp?

I saw the fan on c program in the folder, and wondered.

Mike

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Yes usually there is a "for" loop at the end of your main function.  The loop has a set of curly brackets after it.  Everything in the curly brackets gets executed every time around the loop.  So if there is N operations that you want to have continuously performed then put them all in the loop.
>
> Yes the Green Bar on a Thread indicates that Thread is current executing a program.
>
> Regards
> TK
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 2:38 PM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
> Ok...thanks again.
>
> I just bought an Arduino for me and my daughter to fool around with. It looks like the programming language is similar to C. It will help to learn on, anyway.
>
> I should have gotten one first...lol.
>
> If I run a second watchdog....do I need to place it between the brackets of the first one (watchdog) at the end of my init.c?
>
> Does the green box that appears around the thread number when I run a program with a watchdog just mean something is ongoing?
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >  
> > For the opto inputs the 470 ohms is internal.  Just connect the + terminal to either +5V or +12V and the - terminal to your switch and the other end of the switch to ground.
> >  
> > Regarding not being messy: That is hard.  The Winford board has a prototype area you might consider using.  Otherwise you might find industrial PLC or OPTO22 type modules to do the conversion.  But you still may need a serie resistor if they put out +5V (or actually more than 3.5V).
> >  
> > Regards
> > TK
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:34 AM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > Aah....Thanks very much for that drawing. I can't seem to understand these things without one, yet.
> >
> > I'm wondering how to add these components without making a mess of my wiring and having things running everywhere.....lol.
> >
> > Would you happen to have a picture of someone's clean wiring job that might show the external add ons like the resistor and capacitor?
> >
> > I have the winford BOB's for the SnapAmp, and JP7 on Kflop.
> >
> > I see in the manual that the opto input circuit shows a 470 ohm resistor on the opto+ pin.
> >
> > Is that internal, or a suggestion?
> >
> > My boards are on their way back to you....and I forgot to put a note in the box explaining the trouble.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mike,
> > >  
> > > I'm not sure I follow that.  But see attached for a possible solution.  This takes advantage of the internal pull downs on certain KFLOP pins.  The Pull up forms a divider to put 3V on the pin.  When the switch opens R2 pulls the pin to 0V.  R1 also provides protection against spikes on the +5V bus.  The capacitor provides filtering in case of nois spikes picked up in the wiring.  To use Pins without internal pull downs add a pull down externally.
> > >  
> > > Regards
> > > TK
> > >
> > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:09 AM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > > Tom,
> > >
> > > Well.....OK, I actually don't understand. You mentioned using a resistor of a few hundred ohms in series on the power side of the pulldown circuit in case of voltage spikes.
> > >
> > > Wouldn't it be prudent to do a similar thing on a pullup?
> > >
> > > I guess you would put the 200ohm first, then the 1kohm to ground and take the power from between them to the input pin? The switch would then be between the resistors to ground.
> > >
> > > In the above scenario on the pullup, though, the circuit would be consuming some current in both states?
> > >
> > > I'm sure I'm missing something here (probably a lot :-)).
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Tom,
> > > >
> > > > You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?
> > > >
> > > > It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > >
> > > > > On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Looks reasonable to me.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > TK
> > > > > >
> > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5ƒÆ'Æ'‚ tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > However you would also need a pull down resistor.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > 3.3V shouldÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ not cause any damage.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ TheÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ next pin over on JP7 is 12V though whichÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ wouldÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ cause damage.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > send to:
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > Dynomotion
> > > > > > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > > > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > > > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ Then apply +5V to KFLOP.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > > > TKÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚ ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'Æ'‚
> > > > > > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > What did I do?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>



Group: DynoMotion Message: 5011 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/21/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
OK....thats easier to deal with for me. :-)

Mike

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Michael,
>  
> No it is better to have the Motor Supply on before trying to enable the Axis.  If the Motor Supply is not on when you enable the Axis then the servo is likely to detect a small error and make a futile attempt to correct the error which wil result in max output being commanded.  Then is the Motor supply is turned on there is likely to be a big jerk.
>  
> You might have read that the +5V for KFLOP and SnapAmp should be applied before Motor Power.  Although not necessary if possible this is the preferred sequence.
>  
> The SnapAmp Fans come on automatically at 40C.  The Fan.c program was for the now obsolete KMotion Board.
>  
> Regards
> TK
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 7:12 PM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
>
> Thanks,
>
> I thought I read somewhere (although I can't find it again) that the dc supply for the SnapAmp should be turned on after the axis' have been enabled.
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Must I enable the SnapAmp fans manually, or do they come on at a specified temp?
>
> I saw the fan on c program in the folder, and wondered.
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > Yes usually there is a "for" loop at the end of your main function.  The loop has a set of curly brackets after it.  Everything in the curly brackets gets executed every time around the loop.  So if there is N operations that you want to have continuously performed then put them all in the loop.
> >
> > Yes the Green Bar on a Thread indicates that Thread is current executing a program.
> >
> > Regards
> > TK
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 2:38 PM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> >
> >
> >  
> > Ok...thanks again.
> >
> > I just bought an Arduino for me and my daughter to fool around with. It looks like the programming language is similar to C. It will help to learn on, anyway.
> >
> > I should have gotten one first...lol.
> >
> > If I run a second watchdog....do I need to place it between the brackets of the first one (watchdog) at the end of my init.c?
> >
> > Does the green box that appears around the thread number when I run a program with a watchdog just mean something is ongoing?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mike,
> > >  
> > > For the opto inputs the 470 ohms is internal.  Just connect the + terminal to either +5V or +12V and the - terminal to your switch and the other end of the switch to ground.
> > >  
> > > Regarding not being messy: That is hard.  The Winford board has a prototype area you might consider using.  Otherwise you might find industrial PLC or OPTO22 type modules to do the conversion.  But you still may need a serie resistor if they put out +5V (or actually more than 3.5V).
> > >  
> > > Regards
> > > TK
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:34 AM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > > Tom,
> > >
> > > Aah....Thanks very much for that drawing. I can't seem to understand these things without one, yet.
> > >
> > > I'm wondering how to add these components without making a mess of my wiring and having things running everywhere.....lol.
> > >
> > > Would you happen to have a picture of someone's clean wiring job that might show the external add ons like the resistor and capacitor?
> > >
> > > I have the winford BOB's for the SnapAmp, and JP7 on Kflop.
> > >
> > > I see in the manual that the opto input circuit shows a 470 ohm resistor on the opto+ pin.
> > >
> > > Is that internal, or a suggestion?
> > >
> > > My boards are on their way back to you....and I forgot to put a note in the box explaining the trouble.
> > >
> > > Thanks again,
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
> > > > I'm not sure I follow that.ÃÆ'‚  But see attached for a possible solution.ÃÆ'‚  This takes advantage of the internal pull downs on certain KFLOP pins.ÃÆ'‚  The Pull up forms a divider to put 3V on the pin.ÃÆ'‚  When the switch opens R2 pulls the pin to 0V.ÃÆ'‚  R1 also provides protection against spikes on the +5V bus.ÃÆ'‚  The capacitor provides filtering in case of nois spikes picked up in the wiring.ÃÆ'‚  To use Pins without internal pull downs add a pull down externally.
> > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
> > > > Regards
> > > > TK
> > > >
> > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:09 AM
> > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ÃÆ'‚ 
> > > > Tom,
> > > >
> > > > Well.....OK, I actually don't understand. You mentioned using a resistor of a few hundred ohms in series on the power side of the pulldown circuit in case of voltage spikes.
> > > >
> > > > Wouldn't it be prudent to do a similar thing on a pullup?
> > > >
> > > > I guess you would put the 200ohm first, then the 1kohm to ground and take the power from between them to the input pin? The switch would then be between the resistors to ground.
> > > >
> > > > In the above scenario on the pullup, though, the circuit would be consuming some current in both states?
> > > >
> > > > I'm sure I'm missing something here (probably a lot :-)).
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Tom,
> > > > >
> > > > > You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?
> > > > >
> > > > > It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Looks reasonable to me.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5VÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > However you would also need a pull down resistor.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > 3.3V shouldÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ not cause any damage.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ TheÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ next pin over on JP7 is 12V though whichÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ wouldÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ cause damage.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ Are you applying 12V to
> KFLOP?
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > send to:
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > Dynomotion
> > > > > > > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > > > > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > > > > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > TK
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ Then apply +5V to
> KFLOP.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > > > > TKÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'‚¢ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡ÃÆ'‚¬ÃÆ'Æ'…ÃÆ'‚¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'†'ÃÆ'Æ'¢ÃÆ'¢â€šÂ¬ÃÆ'…¡ÃÆ'Æ'Æ'ÃÆ'¢â‚¬Å¡
> > > > > > > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > What did I do?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4973 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: SnapAmp .....No More Function
So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.

I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.

After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.

The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.

What did I do?

Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4974 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
I can no longer toggle output bits from the console, either.

I can set bit direction.....but nothing else.

Mike

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@...> wrote:
>
> So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
>
> I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
>
> After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
>
> The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
>
> What did I do?
>
> Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4975 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Hi Michael,
 
What did you connect to pin 83?
 
To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.  Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.  Then apply +5V to KFLOP.  The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.  If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
 
Regards
TK  

Group: DynoMotion Message: 4976 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.

There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?

I obviously made a mistake....lol.

Do I send it to the address that it came from?

Mike




--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Michael,
>  
> What did you connect to pin 83?
>  
> To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.  Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.  Then apply +5V to KFLOP.  The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.  If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
>  
> Regards
> TK  
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
> So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
>
> I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
>
> After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
>
> The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
>
> What did I do?
>
> Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4977 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Hi Michael,
 
3.3V should not cause any damage.  The next pin over on JP7 is 12V though which would cause damage.  Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
 
send to:
 
Dynomotion
c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
3532 Adamsville Ave
Calabasas, CA 91302
 
 
TK
  

Group: DynoMotion Message: 4978 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Yes....I have 5v and 12v.

Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?

I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.

Mike


--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Michael,
>  
> 3.3V should not cause any damage.  The next pin over on JP7 is 12V though which would cause damage.  Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
>  
> send to:
>  
> Dynomotion
> c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> 3532 Adamsville Ave
> Calabasas, CA 91302
>  
>  
> TK
>   
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
>
> I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
>
> There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
>
> I obviously made a mistake....lol.
>
> Do I send it to the address that it came from?
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Michael,
> >  
> > What did you connect to pin 83?
> >  
> > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.  Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.  Then apply +5V to KFLOP.  The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.  If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> >  
> > Regards
> > TK  
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> >
> >
> >  
> > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> >
> > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> >
> > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> >
> > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> >
> > What did I do?
> >
> > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4979 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Hi Mike,
 
+12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp.  That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
 
SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5V  tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem.  But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms.  It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage.  The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them. 
 
However you would also need a pull down resistor.  This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V.  More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
 
You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
 
Regards
TK
 

Group: DynoMotion Message: 4980 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Well....that actually makes sense to me.

I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.

Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/

Thanks,

Mike

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>  
> +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp.  That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
>  
> SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5V  tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem.  But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms.  It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage.  The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them. 
>  
> However you would also need a pull down resistor.  This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V.  More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
>  
> You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
>  
> Regards
> TK
>  
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
>
> Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
>
> Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
>
> I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Michael,
> >  
> > 3.3V should not cause any damage.  The next pin over on JP7 is 12V though which would cause damage.  Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> >  
> > send to:
> >  
> > Dynomotion
> > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > Calabasas, CA 91302
> >  
> >  
> > TK
> >   
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> >
> > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> >
> > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> >
> > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Michael,
> > >  
> > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > >  
> > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.  Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.  Then apply +5V to KFLOP.  The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.  If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > >  
> > > Regards
> > > TK  
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > >
> > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > >
> > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > >
> > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > >
> > > What did I do?
> > >
> > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > >
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4981 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Looks reasonable to me.
 
TK

Group: DynoMotion Message: 4982 From: Michael Niksch Date: 5/16/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Thanks

On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:

 

Looks reasonable to me.
 
TK

Group: DynoMotion Message: 4984 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/17/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Tom,

You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?

It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.

Mike

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks
>
> On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> > Looks reasonable to me.
> >
> > TK
> >
> > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> >
> >
> > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> >
> > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> >
> > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> >
> > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mike,
> > > Â
> > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp. That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > Â
> > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5V tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem. But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms. It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage. The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.Â
> > > Â
> > > However you would also need a pull down resistor. This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V. More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > Â
> > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > Â
> > > Regards
> > > TK
> > > Â
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > >
> > >
> > > Â
> > >
> > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > >
> > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > >
> > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > ÂÂ
> > > > 3.3V should not cause any damage. The next pin over on JP7 is 12V though which would cause damage. Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> > > > ÂÂ
> > > > send to:
> > > > ÂÂ
> > > > Dynomotion
> > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > ÂÂ
> > > > ÂÂ
> > > > TK
> > > >  ÂÂ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ÂÂ
> > > >
> > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > >
> > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > >
> > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > >
> > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ Then apply +5V to KFLOP.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > Regards
> > > > > TKÃÆ'‚ÂÂ ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > >
> > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > >
> > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > >
> > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > >
> > > > > What did I do?
> > > > >
> > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4985 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/17/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Tom,

Well.....OK, I actually don't understand. You mentioned using a resistor of a few hundred ohms in series on the power side of the pulldown circuit in case of voltage spikes.

Wouldn't it be prudent to do a similar thing on a pullup?

I guess you would put the 200ohm first, then the 1kohm to ground and take the power from between them to the input pin? The switch would then be between the resistors to ground.

In the above scenario on the pullup, though, the circuit would be consuming some current in both states?

I'm sure I'm missing something here (probably a lot :-)).

Mike



--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@...> wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?
>
> It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> >
> > > Looks reasonable to me.
> > >
> > > TK
> > >
> > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > >
> > >
> > > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> > >
> > > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> > >
> > > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> > >
> > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > Â
> > > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp. That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > > Â
> > > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5V tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem. But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms. It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage. The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.Â
> > > > Â
> > > > However you would also need a pull down resistor. This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V. More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > > Â
> > > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > > Â
> > > > Regards
> > > > TK
> > > > Â
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Â
> > > >
> > > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > > >
> > > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > > >
> > > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > ÂÂ
> > > > > 3.3V should not cause any damage. The next pin over on JP7 is 12V though which would cause damage. Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> > > > > ÂÂ
> > > > > send to:
> > > > > ÂÂ
> > > > > Dynomotion
> > > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > > ÂÂ
> > > > > ÂÂ
> > > > > TK
> > > > >  ÂÂ
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ÂÂ
> > > > >
> > > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > > >
> > > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > > >
> > > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > > >
> > > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ Then apply +5V to KFLOP.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > TKÃÆ'‚ÂÂ ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚ÂÂ
> > > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > What did I do?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4987 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/17/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Hi Mike,
 
I'm not sure I follow that.  But see attached for a possible solution.  This takes advantage of the internal pull downs on certain KFLOP pins.  The Pull up forms a divider to put 3V on the pin.  When the switch opens R2 pulls the pin to 0V.  R1 also provides protection against spikes on the +5V bus.  The capacitor provides filtering in case of nois spikes picked up in the wiring.  To use Pins without internal pull downs add a pull down externally.
 
Regards
TK

Group: DynoMotion Message: 4991 From: michaelthomasn Date: 5/18/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Tom,


Aah....Thanks very much for that drawing. I can't seem to understand these things without one, yet.

I'm wondering how to add these components without making a mess of my wiring and having things running everywhere.....lol.

Would you happen to have a picture of someone's clean wiring job that might show the external add ons like the resistor and capacitor?

I have the winford BOB's for the SnapAmp, and JP7 on Kflop.

I see in the manual that the opto input circuit shows a 470 ohm resistor on the opto+ pin.

Is that internal, or a suggestion?

My boards are on their way back to you....and I forgot to put a note in the box explaining the trouble.

Thanks again,

Mike



--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>  
> I'm not sure I follow that.  But see attached for a possible solution.  This takes advantage of the internal pull downs on certain KFLOP pins.  The Pull up forms a divider to put 3V on the pin.  When the switch opens R2 pulls the pin to 0V.  R1 also provides protection against spikes on the +5V bus.  The capacitor provides filtering in case of nois spikes picked up in the wiring.  To use Pins without internal pull downs add a pull down externally.
>  
> Regards
> TK
>
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:09 AM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
> Tom,
>
> Well.....OK, I actually don't understand. You mentioned using a resistor of a few hundred ohms in series on the power side of the pulldown circuit in case of voltage spikes.
>
> Wouldn't it be prudent to do a similar thing on a pullup?
>
> I guess you would put the 200ohm first, then the 1kohm to ground and take the power from between them to the input pin? The switch would then be between the resistors to ground.
>
> In the above scenario on the pullup, though, the circuit would be consuming some current in both states?
>
> I'm sure I'm missing something here (probably a lot :-)).
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?
> >
> > It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Looks reasonable to me.
> > > >
> > > > TK
> > > >
> > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> > > >
> > > > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> > > >
> > > > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> > > >
> > > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > > Â
> > > > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp. That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > > > Â
> > > > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5V tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem. But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms. It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage. The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.Â
> > > > > Â
> > > > > However you would also need a pull down resistor. This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V. More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > > > Â
> > > > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > > > Â
> > > > > Regards
> > > > > TK
> > > > > Â
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Â
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > > > >
> > > > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > > > >
> > > > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > 3.3V shouldÃÆ'‚Â not cause any damage.ÃÆ'‚Â TheÃÆ'‚Â next pin over on JP7 is 12V though whichÃÆ'‚Â wouldÃÆ'‚Â cause damage.ÃÆ'‚Â Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > send to:
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > Dynomotion
> > > > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > TK
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â Then apply +5V to KFLOP.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > TKÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > What did I do?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: DynoMotion Message: 4992 From: Tom Kerekes Date: 5/18/2012
Subject: Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
Hi Mike,
 
For the opto inputs the 470 ohms is internal.  Just connect the + terminal to either +5V or +12V and the - terminal to your switch and the other end of the switch to ground.
 
Regarding not being messy: That is hard.  The Winford board has a prototype area you might consider using.  Otherwise you might find industrial PLC or OPTO22 type modules to do the conversion.  But you still may need a serie resistor if they put out +5V (or actually more than 3.5V).
 
Regards
TK

From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:34 AM
Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function

 
Tom,

Aah....Thanks very much for that drawing. I can't seem to understand these things without one, yet.

I'm wondering how to add these components without making a mess of my wiring and having things running everywhere.....lol.

Would you happen to have a picture of someone's clean wiring job that might show the external add ons like the resistor and capacitor?

I have the winford BOB's for the SnapAmp, and JP7 on Kflop.

I see in the manual that the opto input circuit shows a 470 ohm resistor on the opto+ pin.

Is that internal, or a suggestion?

My boards are on their way back to you....and I forgot to put a note in the box explaining the trouble.

Thanks again,

Mike

--- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>  
> I'm not sure I follow that.  But see attached for a possible solution.  This takes advantage of the internal pull downs on certain KFLOP pins.  The Pull up forms a divider to put 3V on the pin.  When the switch opens R2 pulls the pin to 0V.  R1 also provides protection against spikes on the +5V bus.  The capacitor provides filtering in case of nois spikes picked up in the wiring.  To use Pins without internal pull downs add a pull down externally.
>  
> Regards
> TK
>
> From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@...>
> To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:09 AM
> Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
>
>
>  
> Tom,
>
> Well.....OK, I actually don't understand. You mentioned using a resistor of a few hundred ohms in series on the power side of the pulldown circuit in case of voltage spikes.
>
> Wouldn't it be prudent to do a similar thing on a pullup?
>
> I guess you would put the 200ohm first, then the 1kohm to ground and take the power from between them to the input pin? The switch would then be between the resistors to ground.
>
> In the above scenario on the pullup, though, the circuit would be consuming some current in both states?
>
> I'm sure I'm missing something here (probably a lot :-)).
>
> Mike
>
> --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, "michaelthomasn" <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > You mentioned a 1k pullup in another discussion we had....what value pulldown would I need?
> >
> > It seem like a safe pulldown circuit is a little more complicated (with the extra resistor) than a good pullup. I suppose I should just use a pullup and change the state that I am looking for in the watchdog.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Niksch <michaelniksch@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > On May 16, 2012, at 6:59 PM, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Looks reasonable to me.
> > > >
> > > > TK
> > > >
> > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:35 PM
> > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Well....that actually makes sense to me.
> > > >
> > > > I can safely say that it would not have last week....lol.
> > > >
> > > > Would you mind looking at this watchdog addition in my init and tell me if it would even work. I never got far enough to test it. The plan is to have it in tandem with my hardware estop that drops the contactor to my amp PS. Maybe I don't even need it? I'm learning slowly.
> > > >
> > > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DynoMotion/files/michaelthomas/
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Mike,
> > > > > Â
> > > > > +12V is not required for KFLOP/SnapAmp. That supply is just routed through KFLOP to the various connectors to be convieniently available if needed for some custom purpose.
> > > > > Â
> > > > > SnapAmp GPIO inputs are +5V tolerant so connecting directly to +3.3V should not be a problem. But it would be prudent to add a series resistor of several hundred ohms. It that case if there was a momentary noise spike to say +7V ( or -2V) it wouldn't cause any damage. The GPIO inputs are very high impedence (meg ohms) so a series resistance would still easily drive them.Â
> > > > > Â
> > > > > However you would also need a pull down resistor. This is because when your switch opens the input would be left floating and would not necessarily return to 0V. More likely stray capacitance would keep it at 3.3V so the signal would remain high whether the switch was open or closed.
> > > > > Â
> > > > > You might also consider using the SnapAmp Opto Isolate inputs if there are any remaining.
> > > > > Â
> > > > > Regards
> > > > > TK
> > > > > Â
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:43 PM
> > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Â
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes....I have 5v and 12v.
> > > > >
> > > > > Assuming I actually connected the switch to 3.3v (and not 12, which it seems I must have)....is that the proper way to send the pin to a high state?
> > > > >
> > > > > I did not have a resistor in series with the switch.....as I didn't think it would be necessary.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > 3.3V shouldÃÆ'‚Â not cause any damage.ÃÆ'‚Â TheÃÆ'‚Â next pin over on JP7 is 12V though whichÃÆ'‚Â wouldÃÆ'‚Â cause damage.ÃÆ'‚Â Are you applying 12V to KFLOP?
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > send to:
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > Dynomotion
> > > > > > c/o Tom Kerekes RMA#23
> > > > > > 3532 Adamsville Ave
> > > > > > Calabasas, CA 91302
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > TK
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] Re: SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I connected a NO pushbutton switch wired to 3.3v from pin 1 on Kflop JP7. I never quite got it hooked up before the lights went out.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There are no lights on the SnapAmp at all. Was that a stupid thing to do?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I obviously made a mistake....lol.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Do I send it to the address that it came from?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com, Tom Kerekes <tk@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi Michael,
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > What did you connect to pin 83?
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > To Test you should remove all connections from both boards.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â Leave only the 16 pin ribbon connection between KFLOP and the SnapAmp.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â Then apply +5V to KFLOP.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â The "I'm Alive" LED on SnapAmp should blink continuously.ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â If it doesn't the board is bad and you will need to return it for analysis/repair.
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > Regards
> > > > > > > TKÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > > > From: michaelthomasn <michaelniksch@>
> > > > > > > To: DynoMotion@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 3:40 PM
> > > > > > > Subject: [DynoMotion] SnapAmp .....No More Function
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ÃÆ'Æ'‚ÃÆ'‚Â
> > > > > > > So I had one axis connected, encoder working, and was playing with the servo tuning most of the morning.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I decided to try to implement a watchdog on pin 83 of Snapamp that would be part of my estop.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > After finishing the C code part....i attempted to change the state of the input to see if it would work.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The lights went out on the SnapAmp, and they don't seem like they are coming back.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > What did I do?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Can I test the SnapAmp somehow?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>